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The 3 enemy of your new vehicle is lugging the motor. Recommended cold vehicle start up procedures: a. Open the door of your car and get in. Start your engine and slowly drive away imediately. Pay special attention to rpm. If you can, during as much of the break-in as possible, leave the air conditioning turned OFF. Keep rpm under rpm until engine is completely warm.

For the first miles of your break-in, never exceed rpm. Vary your rpm. This creates different engine loads, different pressures and different friction values on the sum of your parts as they try to find a way to fit together best. It also changes the metal shearing process and provides more even wear-in. Look at it this way, if you will: The break-in of your new vehicle is nothing more than removing enough material so that all the parts fit together parts conformity so that once the break-in is completed, you have proper tolerances, fit and finish for optimal performance, efficiency and longevity.

As an engine and other drivetrain components wear-in, the amount of material removed via friction declines dramatically. The actual SIZE of those metal particles also reduce in physical size also, the more miles you put on those components. So with that said and this will sound CRAZY to most people , the best time to change your oil is between miles. I will repeat that, just in case you think you mis-read it. Change your oil after the first miles!

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Why you ask? Well, firstly, your oil filter can only catch so many metal particles and your oil can only suspend so many particles. Accelerated engine wear during break-in means more miniscule metal particles floating around your engine just waiting to be squashed or redeposited on other moving parts. Change your oil and get the metal particles the result of your engine parts rubbing against each other out of your new engine! Having metal particles redistributed onto moving parts can often cause tolerance issues and lends to accelerated wear, increases friction and reduces efficiency.

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This aids in top cylinder lubrication and seating your rings. It also protects your cyclinder bore. I would recommend using the same oil brand, type and viscosity as what originally came with your car. Some people will argue incorrectly that manufacturers use a special break-in oil or add friction modifiers to their new engines.

They used to do this practice many decades ago, but not today. Cylinder bores usually have a cross hatch machining process or grooves that aids in piston ring seating and oil retention. It's best to wait until you have around miles on an engine before using a full synthetic. After the first oil change at miles has been completed, you can try some of the new driving techniques stated below. After another miles, you can Oil analysis shows that typical engine machining running in has diminished noticeably and that the size of metal particles in the oil have also reduced in size.

You still want to get rid of those particles, because as they get smaller, more of them escape the oil filter "catch" and tend to redeposit on moving parts. They are still a bit too big to stay completely suspended in the engine oil for longer periods of time.

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If you decide to skip the mile oil change, it is imparitive that you do your second oil change no later than at the mile mark. Then your next oil change should be at miles, and then every miles or whatever your owners manual recommends. Driving Techniques: The owners manual is very vague concerning driving techniques and habits during the break-in period. The break-in period driving techniques I will recommend will be broken down into 4 different stages. Each stage is used during a certain part of the break-in distiguish by a mileage "scale". Warm the car up fully.

Vary engine speed rpm AND road speeds. Never exceed rpm at this stage Fiesta ST specific. It is best to shift at or below rpm when the engine is cold, but avoid lugging the engine using a gear that allows too low engine revolutions. Vary your driving. Do not do all of your driving on the highway or on city streets, mix it up every minutes for the first miles IF it is practical. Try to avoid high traffic areas, especially stop and go traffic conditions which is hard on new brakes, clutch linings and transmissions.

To do a proper break-in, it is important to drive the car smoothly in each gear, being mostly gentle with throttle this keeps drivetrain "lash" to a minimum. Vary the rpms in each gear. To help break-in your transmission, this means finding a place where you can drive in 1st and 2nd gear for a few minutes at a time.

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Remember, drive at different road speeds AND different engine speeds. Keep revs above rpm and below rpm. For instance, once the car is fully warmed up start out in 2nd gear at about rpm. Hold that engine speed and road speed for seconds, then gently accelerate to rpm. Hold that engine and road speed for seconds, then gently accelerate to rpm. Hold for 10 seconds. Then repeat the driving technique rpm, rpm, rpm and rpm.

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Do this in each gear. Make sure road speeds are high enough that you are not lugging the engine. Stage 2: Secondary break-in period miles Warm up the car fully.


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Continue to vary engine speed AND road speeds as in Stage 1. CRJ is offline. Quote Quick Reply. Remove Advertisements. I have pulled my jetdrive, to begin cleaning it up. Thats where i sit right now. Ill be ordering the new prop end of this week and hope to have a few test runs before winter rolls around. BUT, theres still info if you have the time to look. First off, a upgrade list from atlantic jet sports. OH, and i found CDI pinouts for you to test yours to see if its broken or not! Had my first long run today. Awesome ride! Took it out today GPS clocked me at I started the day at 49kmh, and with carb tuning and a tank 0f 87 octane, got 5.

I swapped in new plugs, but didnt pick up any extra speed. Used my trucks GPS Garmin in a plastic bag under the seat. I want to be sure i check what each change does for me, and get a list together.


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Met with a bunch of racers from the area. Well, the is going to a buddy for him to rip.

Plans are to go to a 61X cylinder and 62T case. Motor is a 6m6 now, thats wont stay that way for long.

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