The Chiros stunt plane I painted had the Friskit Film for the checkers cut on the airplane. The See Temp was used as a edge to guide the knife. This took a light touch on the trusty 11 blade but is easy once you get the hang of it. The Friskit really doesn't need to be cut to separate but just scored.
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I am not sure if there are vinyl cutters that will cut Friskit since I have never seen Friskit with the indexed holes on the edge for the cutters but it would be nice to have the computer controlled cutters do the job of cutting. Maybe taping the Friskit to the vinyl and running the vinyl through the cutter would work. If transferring the design from print then the Friskit material can be placed over the print and back lit.
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When doing the Citabria "N" numbers I used a glass toped end table with the lamp placed underneath for back lighting. A window on a sunny day would work just as well. It also helps to use a transparent drafting triangle so you can see where the lines are when cutting the Friskit Film. If the Friskit is not cut on the airplane then bridges of masking tape will have to be applied to the Friskit stencil to hold it together while applying it to the model. When applying the Friskit to the model it is beneficial to peel the backing away from one corner of the stencil and adhere only that portion until you are satisfied with the alignment.
If the alignment is correct then the backing can be slowly peeled away from the stencil. See Temp is used as a straight edge while cutting the Friskit stencil. See Temp material is used to make templates off of plans for formers, ribs, etc and works great for a templates to mask against or for cutting trim.
This material is also transparent so that you can see the part you are duplicating. What about Checkers of this design out of Ultracoat? I prefer Ultracoat since it adheres to itself better than Monokote I tried some checker test samples out of Ultracoat. I took the Ultracoat while still on its backing and cut the film down to but not through the backing paper. Once all of the checkers were cut I removed every other one to form the check pattern.
Once the Ultracoat was cut in this manner I removed the backing from the Friskit Film and stuck it down over the checker pattern I just cut. The Friskit is used to hold the checkers in position while ironing. Once the Friskit is on top of the Ultracoat I peeled the backing off of the Ultracoat and placed the Ultracoat and Friskit Film onto the airplane. Once the checks were positioned I ironed through the Friskit Film with an Iron turned down to about half way to adhere the Ultracoat. The Friskit will soften a little but you will still be able to remove it after ironing.
As with the painted checkers a little Prep Sol will help to remove any left over Friskit gum without damaging the paint or Ultracoat.
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I use Prep Sol to clean any dirt or oils from the Ultracoat before adding trim. Cut the checkers with a new 11 X-Acto blade and pick out every other check to form the pattern.
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The checkers were cut with a see temp template to give the curved effect. They are not ironed onto the wing in this picture, just positioned to see how they will look. The leading edge of the wing is Monokote metallic blue paint and the gold stripe is Goldberg Ultracoat. Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye: You can choose one color if you want every other square to be the natural leather color my choice ; or you can choose two dyes to color the squares two different colors.
The Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye is an alcohol-based dye, and my personal favorite. You can find it at Tandy XX for 4 fl oz.
Fiebing's Tan-Kote: This is a resin based formula, used as a top finish. Keep in mind that it is not water resistant. It can be found at Tandy for 4 fl oz. Fiebing's Antique Finish: Gives the checkerboard an antique look. This finish comes in several colors and can be found on Amazon. I chose dark brown. When you first look at the list of tools I used for this project, it seems daunting. Keep in mind, there are alternate ways of accomplishing the same result, with or with out the tools listed. Over the past few years, as I came up with new projects, I bought one or two tools at a time.seltilunmo.tk
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For some projects, I made that special trip to visit Tandy Leather to get what I need. I'm like a kid in a candy store! TIP: If you're not sure how to use one of the tools that Tandy sells, go to tandyleather.
This is a great resource that I use often! Poundo Board 12" x 12" Tandy , used on top of the granite slab to protect the punches from damage. TIP: Initially, I very disappointed with the 1" hole punch. It was covered with black "soot" or grease and was not very sharp. I took it out to the garage and cleaned it up, used a very fine sand paper on the tip and then followed up with steel wool. When using, I run my bar of beeswax over the tip to help glide it through the leather.
Still, it takes quite a few pounds to get it to cut through, but it does the job. Use your ruler and L-shaped angle square ruler to draw out your 12" x 12" square on the oz vegetable tanned leather. You can draw the lines using your scratch awl or you can do as I did and used a pen. All the lines you draw at this point will be removed when you use the freehand stitching groover to define the lines. Using the freehand stitching groover and a ruler, groove out all the lines that you've made you'll end up with a pile of grooved leather Use your razor to carefully cut the curves.
You can bevel the edges with your edge beveler. Flip the checkerboard over and bevel around the edges on the other side too. Here's a cool trick to use to add texture to your leather.
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It hides minor mistakes made while marking lines and also hides flaws in the leather. Take a clean, wet sponge and dampen your leather. We don't want to dip the leather in water, just wet the top portion of it. Grab your wet checkerboard and mallet. Go outside and find a rough looking section of sidewalk or slab of concrete. Place your leather face down on the sidewalk and somewhere between lightly and firmly, use your mallet to tap all over the leather you should be tapping on the backside since you placed the face down.
Once you're sure you've tapped every single spot, pick it up and take a look at it. Check to see if there are areas that you missed and tap some more if you need to. Set the checkerboard to the side to let it dry. If your leather has warps in it like mine , place it on a flat surface; then place a towel over it to absorb the dampness and a heavy, flat object books or granite on top of the towel.
Use a wet sponge to dampen not soak the edges of the checkerboard. Rub the wood slicker back and forth, vigorously, to burnish the edges. Do this all the way around the board. Begin dying the squares. I chose to use one color medium brown and left the other color as the natural leather. Use the dye carefully. Your first brush stroke on each square should be away from the edge to keep the dye from traveling to places that you don't want it to go.
You may need to go back over each square with a second coat of dye. Once the dye dries, use a cotton ball and spread a nice coat of Extra Virgin Olive Oil over the face of the checkerboard not on the back. This will soak in and rejuvenate your leather. Let it sit overnight. Dampen a sponge and wring out as much water as you can.
Soak a bit of Tan-Kote onto the sponge and wipe the entire face of the checkerboard using circular motions, making sure you get the Tan-Kote coverage inside every cut and crevice. Allow at least 30 minutes to 1 hour to dry. Gather a handful of cotton balls and the Fiebing's Antique Finish. This antique finish is a paste, which is one of the things I love about it.
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